My calves are sore

Yes, it has been a while, but if I did not have the chance to take a shower for four days, then consider it a pretty good indication that I might not be in close proximity to a computer either. "Why?", you ask. The Inca Trail, of course. Let me just say that that is an experience unmatched by any other to date. It was exhausting, fulfilling, enjoyable, and spiritual all wrapped into one. For those who may not be familiar (which would have included me not that long ago), it is a four day trek covering about 23 miles, ranging in alitude from about 8,000 to 14,000 feet, culminating with an arrival to Machu Picchu as the sun rises on the fourth day.

Now for the details of our specific trip...
We traveled as a group of 14 hikers led by 2 guides and taken care of by 19 porters and 1 cook. We decided to go with a company recommended by a friend of ours (thank you, Robbie) that is particularly conscious about taking care of their porters and giving back to the community. These guys were unbelieveable. We woke up every morning to our assistant guide knocking on our tent, porter in tow with hot tea. By the time we had packed our packs, a hot breakfast was waiting for us in the dining tent. We would then begin to hike while our porters broke camp and carried all of the stuff to the next site.

Sidebar: Here is what these 19 porters were carrying everyday...8 4-person tents, 1 cook tent, 1 mess tent, 16 stools, 1 16-person folding dining table, metal dishes and flatware for 16 people, 4 days worth of food for 36 people, all the equipment to cook said food (including a stove and propane tanks), their own clothing and sleeping bags/pads, and all the clothing and sleeping bags/pads for the 8 people that had paid extra for their personal gear to be carried by the porters. And I am sure I missed something. In fact, in 2002 they passed a regulation that a porter´s load could be no heavier than 20 kilos (which is still about 44 pounds), although we saw for sure that less responsible companies still do not abide by it. Now brace yourself for a mental hernia...prior to this regulation, it was the norm for porters to carry up to 50 kilos (over 100 pounds) at a time.

Then maybe an hour after we had left camp, our porters would come bounding by with ungodly sized mounds of gear strapped to their backs, half of them wearing sandals. By the time we would drag our sweaty, winded asses into our lunch camp, the mess and cook tents would be set up and a 3 course hot meal would be waiting for us. Then we would leave for the second half of the day, and guess what...these guys would do it all over again, and by the time we arrived to base camp for the night, everything would be set up including our sleeping tents, and we would have tea time while the cook prepared our dinner...and the food was amazing (and not even in the "amazing for camp food" way). On top of all that, they looked happy while doing it. My hat off to these guys...it was the most incredible display of human endurance I have ever seen.

So the trail itself was amazing. The hiking was beautiful and for the most part, we had great weather. I cannot even begin to describe how breathtaking the mountains were and how awe-inspiring the Inca sites were along the trail. What can I say? They just don´t build them like they used to.
Day 1: 10K that began around 7 or 8 in the morning with a bridge crossing and quite a bit of up and down hiking. I don´t remember the exact altitudes and my notes are back at the hostel right now. We stopped to visit some smaller sites along the trail that were really cool and began developing a nice background knowledge of the Inca people. All in all, it was pretty strenuous.
Day 2: They don´t call this 9K the gringo killer for nothing. We got up at 5AM to begin hiking about 6AM and started going up...and up....and further up. The first 5K or so is a 1200 meter ascent straight up a mountain. If your metric is not so hot, that´s over 3600 feet. We topped off at Dead Woman´s Pass at 14,000 feet, the highest point on the trail, by about 11AM. This, folks, is by far the most I have ever accomplished before noon on a single day. The views of the valley were spectacular once I managed to catch my breath and get my heart rate below 200. What followed was a 500 meter descent to our camp for the night. You might think down is a breeze...it isn´t.
Day 3: This was the longest day at 12K after waking up at 4:45AM. We began with a 400 meters up, 500 meters down, 300 meters up, and (what I would call the knees/butt/thighs killer) 1000 meters down, get this, 2000 stone steps. It was a long day, but probably the most enjoyable on the trail.
Day 4: The last 6K to Machu Picchu began with a 3:45AM wake-up call...in the rain. After hiking a bit, we waited at the trail checkpoint into Machu Picchu to open at 5:30, while the rain cleared up, and then hiked the rest of the way to the Sun Gate where you can catch a spectacular view of the whole of Machu Picchu when the sun rises. What did we see? The biggest cloud cover I have ever seen in my life filling the valley. No joke. We could not see a thing until we were standing in Machu Picchu. We were warned, however, that they have had 1 clear day at the Sun Gate in the last 6 months, so it was ok. And as the day passes, the sky cleared and the sun lit the whole set like the gem that it is. I cannot even begin to describe Machu Picchu at this point (yes, the verbose Tom Keller is without comment). For one, I think I am still absorbing the whole experience, and for two, neither words nor photos will ever do it justice. But don´t worry...we have loads of pictures and we will certainly try when we get home.

All in all, we made it safe and sound save for some blisters on Sara´s feet and a rather nasty knot and bloody gash on the top of my head given to me by the top of the doorjam on one of our camp´s outhouses. And yes, we have taken showers by now, so we no longer smell like the llamas of Machu Picchu.