Sunday, May 25, 2008
Almost home...bummer
Well the time has come to wrap up another trip, and while the thought of my own bed and bathroom is a wonderful one, these trips always come and go all too quickly. It almost feels like I will need a vacation from my vacation when we get back, but don't we always feel like that? All in all, it has been a wonderful trip and we are going to enjoy our last 3 hours or so in Miraflores partaking in the consumption of the delicious empanadas around the corner from our hostel, those hot tasty meat-filled pastry pockets of joy, chased by one of the best cups of cafe con leche in Peru. Honestly, this is not that tough of a title to secure considering that most places in Peru a cafe con leche is a cup of steamed, watered-down milk with a side of Nescafe instant powder...yes, really. We capped our arrival to Lima last night with our last Pisco Sour (also the best in Peru) made by our host, Pedro, at Backpacker's Family Hostel. It is hard to believe that by about 2:30 AM tonight (or tomorrow morning, I guess) we will be landing at JFK in New York. All in all, here is my final take and summary of Peru in one painfully long run-on sentence. While I don't think I could ever live in a place where I could not drink the tap water and, more importantly, flush my used toilet paper to a place far and away out of sight instead of putting it in a little waste bin next to the crapper, Peru has, without question, secured a special place in my heart as a beautiful mountainous country full of incredibly hospitable people with a rich history, great food, and tiny taxi cabs, and I would absolutely suggest to anyone traveling in South America that they place a couple weeks in Peru on the itinerary. I would love to return myself, as after a mere 19 days here, I feel as though I have barely shaken hands with Peru. And I didn't even get a chance to try the Cuy, so I guess I have to come back, right?
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Inca Trail Photo Link
Hi Everyone!
Tom just included a long post about the Inca Trail, and while he was doing that I have unsuccessfully trying to upload photos on the world's slowest computer. At long last the link to a a sampling of photos from the past 4 days is below. Sorry there are no captions, I know it would help, but I've lost patience with the computer.
Enjoy!
Sara
http://travel.webshots.com/album/563477644hcYwQq?vhost=travel
Tom just included a long post about the Inca Trail, and while he was doing that I have unsuccessfully trying to upload photos on the world's slowest computer. At long last the link to a a sampling of photos from the past 4 days is below. Sorry there are no captions, I know it would help, but I've lost patience with the computer.
Enjoy!
Sara
http://travel.webshots.com/album/563477644hcYwQq?vhost=travel
My calves are sore
Yes, it has been a while, but if I did not have the chance to take a shower for four days, then consider it a pretty good indication that I might not be in close proximity to a computer either. "Why?", you ask. The Inca Trail, of course. Let me just say that that is an experience unmatched by any other to date. It was exhausting, fulfilling, enjoyable, and spiritual all wrapped into one. For those who may not be familiar (which would have included me not that long ago), it is a four day trek covering about 23 miles, ranging in alitude from about 8,000 to 14,000 feet, culminating with an arrival to Machu Picchu as the sun rises on the fourth day.
Now for the details of our specific trip...
We traveled as a group of 14 hikers led by 2 guides and taken care of by 19 porters and 1 cook. We decided to go with a company recommended by a friend of ours (thank you, Robbie) that is particularly conscious about taking care of their porters and giving back to the community. These guys were unbelieveable. We woke up every morning to our assistant guide knocking on our tent, porter in tow with hot tea. By the time we had packed our packs, a hot breakfast was waiting for us in the dining tent. We would then begin to hike while our porters broke camp and carried all of the stuff to the next site.
Sidebar: Here is what these 19 porters were carrying everyday...8 4-person tents, 1 cook tent, 1 mess tent, 16 stools, 1 16-person folding dining table, metal dishes and flatware for 16 people, 4 days worth of food for 36 people, all the equipment to cook said food (including a stove and propane tanks), their own clothing and sleeping bags/pads, and all the clothing and sleeping bags/pads for the 8 people that had paid extra for their personal gear to be carried by the porters. And I am sure I missed something. In fact, in 2002 they passed a regulation that a porter´s load could be no heavier than 20 kilos (which is still about 44 pounds), although we saw for sure that less responsible companies still do not abide by it. Now brace yourself for a mental hernia...prior to this regulation, it was the norm for porters to carry up to 50 kilos (over 100 pounds) at a time.
Then maybe an hour after we had left camp, our porters would come bounding by with ungodly sized mounds of gear strapped to their backs, half of them wearing sandals. By the time we would drag our sweaty, winded asses into our lunch camp, the mess and cook tents would be set up and a 3 course hot meal would be waiting for us. Then we would leave for the second half of the day, and guess what...these guys would do it all over again, and by the time we arrived to base camp for the night, everything would be set up including our sleeping tents, and we would have tea time while the cook prepared our dinner...and the food was amazing (and not even in the "amazing for camp food" way). On top of all that, they looked happy while doing it. My hat off to these guys...it was the most incredible display of human endurance I have ever seen.
So the trail itself was amazing. The hiking was beautiful and for the most part, we had great weather. I cannot even begin to describe how breathtaking the mountains were and how awe-inspiring the Inca sites were along the trail. What can I say? They just don´t build them like they used to.
Day 1: 10K that began around 7 or 8 in the morning with a bridge crossing and quite a bit of up and down hiking. I don´t remember the exact altitudes and my notes are back at the hostel right now. We stopped to visit some smaller sites along the trail that were really cool and began developing a nice background knowledge of the Inca people. All in all, it was pretty strenuous.
Day 2: They don´t call this 9K the gringo killer for nothing. We got up at 5AM to begin hiking about 6AM and started going up...and up....and further up. The first 5K or so is a 1200 meter ascent straight up a mountain. If your metric is not so hot, that´s over 3600 feet. We topped off at Dead Woman´s Pass at 14,000 feet, the highest point on the trail, by about 11AM. This, folks, is by far the most I have ever accomplished before noon on a single day. The views of the valley were spectacular once I managed to catch my breath and get my heart rate below 200. What followed was a 500 meter descent to our camp for the night. You might think down is a breeze...it isn´t.
Day 3: This was the longest day at 12K after waking up at 4:45AM. We began with a 400 meters up, 500 meters down, 300 meters up, and (what I would call the knees/butt/thighs killer) 1000 meters down, get this, 2000 stone steps. It was a long day, but probably the most enjoyable on the trail.
Day 4: The last 6K to Machu Picchu began with a 3:45AM wake-up call...in the rain. After hiking a bit, we waited at the trail checkpoint into Machu Picchu to open at 5:30, while the rain cleared up, and then hiked the rest of the way to the Sun Gate where you can catch a spectacular view of the whole of Machu Picchu when the sun rises. What did we see? The biggest cloud cover I have ever seen in my life filling the valley. No joke. We could not see a thing until we were standing in Machu Picchu. We were warned, however, that they have had 1 clear day at the Sun Gate in the last 6 months, so it was ok. And as the day passes, the sky cleared and the sun lit the whole set like the gem that it is. I cannot even begin to describe Machu Picchu at this point (yes, the verbose Tom Keller is without comment). For one, I think I am still absorbing the whole experience, and for two, neither words nor photos will ever do it justice. But don´t worry...we have loads of pictures and we will certainly try when we get home.
All in all, we made it safe and sound save for some blisters on Sara´s feet and a rather nasty knot and bloody gash on the top of my head given to me by the top of the doorjam on one of our camp´s outhouses. And yes, we have taken showers by now, so we no longer smell like the llamas of Machu Picchu.
Now for the details of our specific trip...
We traveled as a group of 14 hikers led by 2 guides and taken care of by 19 porters and 1 cook. We decided to go with a company recommended by a friend of ours (thank you, Robbie) that is particularly conscious about taking care of their porters and giving back to the community. These guys were unbelieveable. We woke up every morning to our assistant guide knocking on our tent, porter in tow with hot tea. By the time we had packed our packs, a hot breakfast was waiting for us in the dining tent. We would then begin to hike while our porters broke camp and carried all of the stuff to the next site.
Sidebar: Here is what these 19 porters were carrying everyday...8 4-person tents, 1 cook tent, 1 mess tent, 16 stools, 1 16-person folding dining table, metal dishes and flatware for 16 people, 4 days worth of food for 36 people, all the equipment to cook said food (including a stove and propane tanks), their own clothing and sleeping bags/pads, and all the clothing and sleeping bags/pads for the 8 people that had paid extra for their personal gear to be carried by the porters. And I am sure I missed something. In fact, in 2002 they passed a regulation that a porter´s load could be no heavier than 20 kilos (which is still about 44 pounds), although we saw for sure that less responsible companies still do not abide by it. Now brace yourself for a mental hernia...prior to this regulation, it was the norm for porters to carry up to 50 kilos (over 100 pounds) at a time.
Then maybe an hour after we had left camp, our porters would come bounding by with ungodly sized mounds of gear strapped to their backs, half of them wearing sandals. By the time we would drag our sweaty, winded asses into our lunch camp, the mess and cook tents would be set up and a 3 course hot meal would be waiting for us. Then we would leave for the second half of the day, and guess what...these guys would do it all over again, and by the time we arrived to base camp for the night, everything would be set up including our sleeping tents, and we would have tea time while the cook prepared our dinner...and the food was amazing (and not even in the "amazing for camp food" way). On top of all that, they looked happy while doing it. My hat off to these guys...it was the most incredible display of human endurance I have ever seen.
So the trail itself was amazing. The hiking was beautiful and for the most part, we had great weather. I cannot even begin to describe how breathtaking the mountains were and how awe-inspiring the Inca sites were along the trail. What can I say? They just don´t build them like they used to.
Day 1: 10K that began around 7 or 8 in the morning with a bridge crossing and quite a bit of up and down hiking. I don´t remember the exact altitudes and my notes are back at the hostel right now. We stopped to visit some smaller sites along the trail that were really cool and began developing a nice background knowledge of the Inca people. All in all, it was pretty strenuous.
Day 2: They don´t call this 9K the gringo killer for nothing. We got up at 5AM to begin hiking about 6AM and started going up...and up....and further up. The first 5K or so is a 1200 meter ascent straight up a mountain. If your metric is not so hot, that´s over 3600 feet. We topped off at Dead Woman´s Pass at 14,000 feet, the highest point on the trail, by about 11AM. This, folks, is by far the most I have ever accomplished before noon on a single day. The views of the valley were spectacular once I managed to catch my breath and get my heart rate below 200. What followed was a 500 meter descent to our camp for the night. You might think down is a breeze...it isn´t.
Day 3: This was the longest day at 12K after waking up at 4:45AM. We began with a 400 meters up, 500 meters down, 300 meters up, and (what I would call the knees/butt/thighs killer) 1000 meters down, get this, 2000 stone steps. It was a long day, but probably the most enjoyable on the trail.
Day 4: The last 6K to Machu Picchu began with a 3:45AM wake-up call...in the rain. After hiking a bit, we waited at the trail checkpoint into Machu Picchu to open at 5:30, while the rain cleared up, and then hiked the rest of the way to the Sun Gate where you can catch a spectacular view of the whole of Machu Picchu when the sun rises. What did we see? The biggest cloud cover I have ever seen in my life filling the valley. No joke. We could not see a thing until we were standing in Machu Picchu. We were warned, however, that they have had 1 clear day at the Sun Gate in the last 6 months, so it was ok. And as the day passes, the sky cleared and the sun lit the whole set like the gem that it is. I cannot even begin to describe Machu Picchu at this point (yes, the verbose Tom Keller is without comment). For one, I think I am still absorbing the whole experience, and for two, neither words nor photos will ever do it justice. But don´t worry...we have loads of pictures and we will certainly try when we get home.
All in all, we made it safe and sound save for some blisters on Sara´s feet and a rather nasty knot and bloody gash on the top of my head given to me by the top of the doorjam on one of our camp´s outhouses. And yes, we have taken showers by now, so we no longer smell like the llamas of Machu Picchu.
Monday, May 12, 2008
"You know me?!, I know you!"
Even though I haven´t posted for awhile Tom´s been doing a decent job keeping you up to date with what we´ve been up. Granted that mostly includes food and modes of transportation, not the actual sights we saw like the ancient ruins, the Indian Market, and the Archeological Museum(which, granted was too boring for to blog about).
Last night was our last night in Lima and we ended by going to see some incredible fountains that are lit up on the weekends, and being that it was Mother´s Day (Happy B-lated Mother´s Day Mom & Kathy - cards are on their way) it was packed which actually made it all the more enjoyable.
Our flight to Cusco this morning was super early (5;40 am) - ugh. As we were standing in line waiting to check our bags we strike up a conversation with a fellow backpacker. Soon his girlfriend joins us and the conversation stops dead as Tom, the girlfriend, and I all stare at each other. 30 seconds later it dawns on us - we did triathlon at JMU together! It was definitely the craziest connection I´ve ever made abroad, especially at 3;30am. Well we enjoyed each other´s company on the flight and then headed our separate ways in Cusco, but it was the quintessential " what a small world" moment.
Cusco is fantastic and Tom and I enjoyed strolling the Plaza de Armas, the main streets, and the back alleys as we adjusted to the altitude (about 10k ft). With the exception of the weather (which is cold, cloudy, and rainy) and one small hiccup at lunch that Tom will share with you, Cusco is incredible and it´s a bit of a bummer that we won´t have more time to explore the city.
The most important thing we did today was check in for our trek on Wed to Machu Picchu. So it´s official now - deposit is paid, waivers are signed - at 5;20am Wed morning we start our hike! I´m more than excited and totally nervous about my abilities (as we hike as high as 14,300ft), but regardless it´s going to be an amazing time!
I hope you all have a great week! And I´ll try and post again when we get done with the trek. Pray for good weather for us.
xx!
Sara
Last night was our last night in Lima and we ended by going to see some incredible fountains that are lit up on the weekends, and being that it was Mother´s Day (Happy B-lated Mother´s Day Mom & Kathy - cards are on their way) it was packed which actually made it all the more enjoyable.
Our flight to Cusco this morning was super early (5;40 am) - ugh. As we were standing in line waiting to check our bags we strike up a conversation with a fellow backpacker. Soon his girlfriend joins us and the conversation stops dead as Tom, the girlfriend, and I all stare at each other. 30 seconds later it dawns on us - we did triathlon at JMU together! It was definitely the craziest connection I´ve ever made abroad, especially at 3;30am. Well we enjoyed each other´s company on the flight and then headed our separate ways in Cusco, but it was the quintessential " what a small world" moment.
Cusco is fantastic and Tom and I enjoyed strolling the Plaza de Armas, the main streets, and the back alleys as we adjusted to the altitude (about 10k ft). With the exception of the weather (which is cold, cloudy, and rainy) and one small hiccup at lunch that Tom will share with you, Cusco is incredible and it´s a bit of a bummer that we won´t have more time to explore the city.
The most important thing we did today was check in for our trek on Wed to Machu Picchu. So it´s official now - deposit is paid, waivers are signed - at 5;20am Wed morning we start our hike! I´m more than excited and totally nervous about my abilities (as we hike as high as 14,300ft), but regardless it´s going to be an amazing time!
I hope you all have a great week! And I´ll try and post again when we get done with the trek. Pray for good weather for us.
xx!
Sara
Steady there, Tom...steady...
As promised, I must mention the amazing ceviche experience first, although that is not the meat and potatoes of this post. As Lima is coastal, they are quite known for their seafood and, more specifically, their ceviche. For those of you who may not be familiar with ceviche, in short, it is seafood cooked without heat using the acid from citrus and served cold. So, per the recommendation of our host, we headed toward La Red in Miraflores for lunch. As it was Mother´s Day (which here is apparently even bigger than in the US), we were told to arrive early. Our waiter greeted us with a smile and immediately began with his recommendations. I love it already. Let´s face it...he knows the food much better than I do and he knows what is the freshest. He says, "Get three plates and share them between the three of you." (Sebastian was with us.) Dandy...I like a variety. Waiter, make it happen. He chose three things and what played out next was a three-part symphony of flavors that contrasted elegantly, piggy-backed off one another, and sang like a masterpiece. First course...grilled pulpo, or octopus, served over causas which I would describe as a seasoned potato cake type thing. It had the charred flavor of the grill matched to a splash of citrus and just a little bit of spice. Excellent. Second course...the cebiche mixt, a variety of ceviche style fish, squid, octopus, shrimp, and a couple shell fish served with shaved red onion and a little bit of red chili. Best ceviche I have ever had, hands down. Third course...relleno de camarones, a baked red chili stuffed with shrimp, a spicy red sauce, and served over potato and cheese. The bomb...enough said. I mean, this meal was on point, and delivered in perfect sequence...hot, cold, hot...a touch of spice, a little more spicy, and finally muy picante. All washed down with a cold Peruvian beer. Hungry? Yeah, I thought so. Somehow I managed a huge plate of chicharonnes (grilled pork with crispy fatty edges) with potato and rice two hours at an open market. What? It smelled incredible and tasted even better.
We departed our hostel in Miraflores at 3AM this morning (you heard me right) to catch our flight to Cusco and made it here by about 7 or so. The hostel is fantastic and we actually scored a private room for the same price as a dorm as a result of them shifting some people around that were in larger groups think. The first thing we are served is some Coca leaf tea to help prevent altitude sickness. After all, Cusco sits just a bit above 10,000 feet. Although we were tired from travelling, it didn´t seem to be affecting us too much other than being prematurely winded from rather short uphill walks in town. "This isn´t going to be as bad as we thought", I think to myself. Well, famous last words, folks. We are walking down a side street when we stumble across a three-course prix fixe lunch that includes a delicous white broth soup, a meat dish with rice and potatoes, a strange local dessert that tastes like a room-temperature gelatinous form of Inca Kola (no, not my favorite), and a beverage. All of this was 4 soles per person. That´s about $2.60...incredible. And we were the only tourists in there...this is the type of trip I was expecting. Ok, soup is in my stomach and I feel great. The meat plate arrives and looks delicious and...wait a minute...I feel a little funny. Is it hot in here? No? Then why am I sweating like a marathon runner? And man am I freezing. Uh oh, I hope there is a toilet in this place. I am not sure what I am going to need it for, but I think I am going to need it. In the corner? Good, they have one. Maybe I should head that direction...if I could walk. I think my peripheral vision is starting to go...and the sounds in the room are a little fuzzy now. Keep it together, Keller. This could get very embarrassing.
Long story short, I did not lose consciousness (and I did not need the toilet), but that, ladies and gentlement, is what mild high altitude sickness feels like, I do believe. I swear, I thought I was going to be face down in that delicious plate of food, kernels of corn up my nose and potatoes in my eyes. I recovered in time for dessert and I have been fine the rest of the day, but I hope that I do not face that again.
We departed our hostel in Miraflores at 3AM this morning (you heard me right) to catch our flight to Cusco and made it here by about 7 or so. The hostel is fantastic and we actually scored a private room for the same price as a dorm as a result of them shifting some people around that were in larger groups think. The first thing we are served is some Coca leaf tea to help prevent altitude sickness. After all, Cusco sits just a bit above 10,000 feet. Although we were tired from travelling, it didn´t seem to be affecting us too much other than being prematurely winded from rather short uphill walks in town. "This isn´t going to be as bad as we thought", I think to myself. Well, famous last words, folks. We are walking down a side street when we stumble across a three-course prix fixe lunch that includes a delicous white broth soup, a meat dish with rice and potatoes, a strange local dessert that tastes like a room-temperature gelatinous form of Inca Kola (no, not my favorite), and a beverage. All of this was 4 soles per person. That´s about $2.60...incredible. And we were the only tourists in there...this is the type of trip I was expecting. Ok, soup is in my stomach and I feel great. The meat plate arrives and looks delicious and...wait a minute...I feel a little funny. Is it hot in here? No? Then why am I sweating like a marathon runner? And man am I freezing. Uh oh, I hope there is a toilet in this place. I am not sure what I am going to need it for, but I think I am going to need it. In the corner? Good, they have one. Maybe I should head that direction...if I could walk. I think my peripheral vision is starting to go...and the sounds in the room are a little fuzzy now. Keep it together, Keller. This could get very embarrassing.
Long story short, I did not lose consciousness (and I did not need the toilet), but that, ladies and gentlement, is what mild high altitude sickness feels like, I do believe. I swear, I thought I was going to be face down in that delicious plate of food, kernels of corn up my nose and potatoes in my eyes. I recovered in time for dessert and I have been fine the rest of the day, but I hope that I do not face that again.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
It´s a taxi...it´s a bus...no, it´s a collectivo!
There are numerous ways to navigate this fair city. The cabs are very cheap. If you don´t stand out like a glaring non-Spanish-speaking American (like myself), they are said to be even cheaper. Every time you hail one, it is a mixed bag, after a fair bit of bargaining, as to what you are going to get. We have had a rather tame driver, an absolutely no-holds-barred, white-knuckle inducing, I-am-the-only-driver-that-counts-so-you-better-move driver, and everything in between. Yesterday we had the pleasure of an all new mode of travel here in Lima. It is called a collectivo, and I am not sure what I can equate it to in the US other than something I may have seen in the middle of three rings courtesy of the Ringling Brothers. It is a tiny van that looks somewhat like a toaster on wheels, and the name of the game is this...they drive up and down the main avenues, packed to the gills with about 12 more passengers than US traffic laws (and the laws of physics) would allow, providing rapid, straight-line transportation. There is an accomplice to the driver, and their job is to hang out of the sliding door shouting the termination point (I think) and keep an eye out for prospective passengers. They do not adhere to the location of bus stops (or traffic laws, for that matter), and if you are ready and willing to sit on a stranger´s lap with your arm in the next person´s face and your head pressed against the glass and you have the Peruvian currency´s equivalence of about 15 US cents, you are a prime candidate to be a passenger on this ride of a lifetime.
All I can say is that I have never been so glad that an English-speaking local took pity on us when she asked, as we had our arms in the air with the Black and Decker toaster van, set to dark, approaching rapidly, "You have never ridden one of these before?!" The look of shock and sheer terror on her face when we affirmed "No" was absolutely priceless. She asked where we were going and volunteered to get us there. Fortunately for us, the only available seats were all the way in the back (only about 3 feet from the door) over what seemed to be about 37 people. We proudly leapt in, handed over the fare, snapped a few photos, and before we knew it, we had arrived at our destination about 15 blocks from when we started. It was amazing, irreplaceable, and something that everyone should do. Could we have walked by the time we finally flagged one down with enough room in it? Yeah, we could have. Would we have sweat less on foot that we did on the quality vinyl seats pressed closer together with perfect strangers than most are when having sex? Without question. But it was a glorious cultural rite of passage that everyone should be a part of. Long live the collectivo!!!
Coming up next time...an ethereal experience of ceviche...
All I can say is that I have never been so glad that an English-speaking local took pity on us when she asked, as we had our arms in the air with the Black and Decker toaster van, set to dark, approaching rapidly, "You have never ridden one of these before?!" The look of shock and sheer terror on her face when we affirmed "No" was absolutely priceless. She asked where we were going and volunteered to get us there. Fortunately for us, the only available seats were all the way in the back (only about 3 feet from the door) over what seemed to be about 37 people. We proudly leapt in, handed over the fare, snapped a few photos, and before we knew it, we had arrived at our destination about 15 blocks from when we started. It was amazing, irreplaceable, and something that everyone should do. Could we have walked by the time we finally flagged one down with enough room in it? Yeah, we could have. Would we have sweat less on foot that we did on the quality vinyl seats pressed closer together with perfect strangers than most are when having sex? Without question. But it was a glorious cultural rite of passage that everyone should be a part of. Long live the collectivo!!!
Coming up next time...an ethereal experience of ceviche...
Friday, May 9, 2008
Cow heart, baby!
So after recovering from the smoke inhalation resulting from the cab ride from Lima, we decided to head out for some dinner with newfound friends from the hostel (Austrian and Dutch). It all started with a walk and an ultimate destination of a cafe (Cafe Cafe, I believe it was aptly called) that overlooked the Pacific Ocean (about a 40 minute walk from the hostel). Sebastian (our Austrian friend) and I stopped to pick up a local beer (Cristal...no, not the kind from the 50 cent video) for the walk. What, you expected me to walk more than 10 minutes on vacation without a drink? Please. Somewhere along the way, we decided that that was too far to walk for dinner and veered down a pedestrian street. If any of my NY readers have ever walked down the street in the East Village called Little India by some (I think it is 6th b/t 1st and 2nd), then you know how all the restaurant hosts basically try to kidnap you into their restaurant with bribes of free wine. Well, this street was one of those...times ten. I was pretty sure one of the hosts was going to slap a black cloth hood over my head and drag me in. We were finally swayed by an offer of free beer with dinner (hey, the one in my hand from the walk was almost empty!) , and we sat and ordered...and continued to sit...and sat some more. This place was clearly not known for its rapid service, but it wasn´t too long before the plate transporting two skewers of freshly grilled cow heart landed in front of me. Apparently it is a pretty popular dish here, and as soon as Pedro and Christian, the owners of our hostel, told me about it, I went running. I had to have it. Was it great? Honestly, no, but it was good...and as you might guess, lean as can be. I mean, the flavor was pleasant, but it was not the most tender piece of meat I have ever eaten. Then again, if you are expecting the muscle that is charged with the task of supplying a 1000 pound beast with its most vital fluid, you would be mistaken. Would I order it again? Probably not. Would I recommend you try it for the sake of saying that you too have have dined on bovine cardio-kebab? Absolutely. And did it make me strong like bull? Damn right.
El Primer Dia in Lima
So it´s 9:10 and I am struggling to keep my eyes open - there is no time difference between New York and Lima so I have no excuse to be this exhausted. It is what it is. We just got back from a good dinner in central Miraflores where we got hasseled into a restaurant - but with promises of a free beer or pisco sour one can only resist for so long. Now I´m back at the hostel on a full stomach and ready for bed.
Today was a pretty eventful day as Tom already pointed out. Central Lima is really busy and not a place I´d like to spend weeks visiting. A day was great though. We saw the changing of the guard in la Plaza de Armas, the catacombs at San Franciscan monestary - I´ve never seen so many femurs! We also walked down the main street of Chinatown. Yes, Chinatown in Peru. It was just like Chinatown in NYC only less crowded. Regardless, 15 min there was more than enough. Tom filled you in on the Inquisition Museum and the horrendus cab ride home. That pretty much brings us up to speed. The hostel is great and we´ve met some really great people already. `
One last thing that Tom suprisingly forgot to mention...we tried Inca Cola today. It was something I guess you have to try once. It was the color of antifreeze (think mountain dew) and tasted like classic bubble gum in a liquid, like the kind of bubble gum that comes in wrappers that you only get at Halloween and is good for like 5 minutes before it turns hard-as-a-rock. If you can imagine that you can imagine how it tastes.
Buenos Noches
Today was a pretty eventful day as Tom already pointed out. Central Lima is really busy and not a place I´d like to spend weeks visiting. A day was great though. We saw the changing of the guard in la Plaza de Armas, the catacombs at San Franciscan monestary - I´ve never seen so many femurs! We also walked down the main street of Chinatown. Yes, Chinatown in Peru. It was just like Chinatown in NYC only less crowded. Regardless, 15 min there was more than enough. Tom filled you in on the Inquisition Museum and the horrendus cab ride home. That pretty much brings us up to speed. The hostel is great and we´ve met some really great people already. `
One last thing that Tom suprisingly forgot to mention...we tried Inca Cola today. It was something I guess you have to try once. It was the color of antifreeze (think mountain dew) and tasted like classic bubble gum in a liquid, like the kind of bubble gum that comes in wrappers that you only get at Halloween and is good for like 5 minutes before it turns hard-as-a-rock. If you can imagine that you can imagine how it tastes.
Buenos Noches
Where do I begin?
Well, it has certainly been an eventful trip so far. Allow me to pick up where I left off. When I last posted, we were about to begin our wait in the Quito airport for our third connection flight. We caught a few minutes of naptime in the marginally comfortable chairs by the gate, when all of a sudden, I was approached by an officer from the Ecuador Policia Nacional and asked for my passport. When I asked him why, I was answered, "Control." Come to find out, this was about the extent of his English. I was led to a rather official looking room where I was prompted to complete some sort of consent form, and don´t worry...there was English translation. (Anyone seen Locked Up Abroad on National Geographic? Yeah, kinda like that.) I was then led to an exam room where the officer x-rayed my abdomen. That´s right, ladies and gentlemen...they took a picture of my insides to make sure that I wasn´t smuggling narcotics in my digestive track. Boy, it sure is a good thing that they didn´t check anywhere obvious like my shoes or, say, my pockets. And, yes, I am serious. I probably could have had a big crack rock in my hand and they wouldn´t have found it.
On a note more relating to the actual holiday itself, we arrived surprisingly smoothly at our hostel last night after our pre-arranged cab (driver waiting with a little sign and everything) picked us up at the terminal. They guys that run the place, Pedro and Christian, are super friendly and have provided us with a map and some insider recommendations. To make a long story less long, we took a cab into central Lima today and did a bit of wandering. We have made friends with Sebastian, a roommate of ours at the hostel, from Vienna, Austria. (Parenthetical Story: As we are enjoying our Pisco Sours at Hotel Bolivar, the supposed birthplace of this popular Peruvian cocktail, Sebastian asks me of my impression of his countryman, the Governator. While we both are fans of Arnold, it turns out that it is not just his English that is poor. Apparently, when his movies are released in Austria, both his English and German is dubbed because he speaks his native tongue so poorly.) We visited a couple of museums, including the Spanish Inquisition Museum (nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!!!), and just did a bit of wandering. The return cab ride alone was worth the trip. We hailed a cab, haggled our fair. and before we knew it, we were the proud passengers of a Daewoo Tika with 266,000 Km on the odometer. ¿What the hell is a Daewoo Tika, you ask? (I added the upsidedown one because this keyboard makes it too easy.) Well, picture a 4-door, hatchback Matchbox car that four grown adults could just barely fit into...then make it 10% smaller. Seriously. Drivers here...nah, I am not even gonna go there. It´s horrific. And I don´t think the whole low emissions thing hasn´t caught on here, because most cars are spewing an unbroken trail of smoke rivaled only by skywriting biplanes. Coming up next time...something about Peruvian food. I promise.
On a note more relating to the actual holiday itself, we arrived surprisingly smoothly at our hostel last night after our pre-arranged cab (driver waiting with a little sign and everything) picked us up at the terminal. They guys that run the place, Pedro and Christian, are super friendly and have provided us with a map and some insider recommendations. To make a long story less long, we took a cab into central Lima today and did a bit of wandering. We have made friends with Sebastian, a roommate of ours at the hostel, from Vienna, Austria. (Parenthetical Story: As we are enjoying our Pisco Sours at Hotel Bolivar, the supposed birthplace of this popular Peruvian cocktail, Sebastian asks me of my impression of his countryman, the Governator. While we both are fans of Arnold, it turns out that it is not just his English that is poor. Apparently, when his movies are released in Austria, both his English and German is dubbed because he speaks his native tongue so poorly.) We visited a couple of museums, including the Spanish Inquisition Museum (nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!!!), and just did a bit of wandering. The return cab ride alone was worth the trip. We hailed a cab, haggled our fair. and before we knew it, we were the proud passengers of a Daewoo Tika with 266,000 Km on the odometer. ¿What the hell is a Daewoo Tika, you ask? (I added the upsidedown one because this keyboard makes it too easy.) Well, picture a 4-door, hatchback Matchbox car that four grown adults could just barely fit into...then make it 10% smaller. Seriously. Drivers here...nah, I am not even gonna go there. It´s horrific. And I don´t think the whole low emissions thing hasn´t caught on here, because most cars are spewing an unbroken trail of smoke rivaled only by skywriting biplanes. Coming up next time...something about Peruvian food. I promise.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Hola Amigos!
Helloo!
Tom and I are sitting side by side blogging at the same time - kind of sad right? Well, what else are you supposed to do on a 4hr layover in Quito. We left our apartment at 4am and were packing as the car pulled up to our door (maybe it wasn´t such a good idea to have friends over to watch ANTM and Top Chef). We made to the airport with ample time and Tom managed to help himself to TWO McDonald´s breakfasts, at 4:30 in the morning. We slept the whole way to Costa Rica and ended up sitting next to some famous footballer during our layover there. And that pretty much brings it up to speed. Nothing exciting except some delicious airplane food - no seriously. We got french toast for breakfast!
Adiós!
Sara
ps - in the future tom and my posts will not be exactly the same
Tom and I are sitting side by side blogging at the same time - kind of sad right? Well, what else are you supposed to do on a 4hr layover in Quito. We left our apartment at 4am and were packing as the car pulled up to our door (maybe it wasn´t such a good idea to have friends over to watch ANTM and Top Chef). We made to the airport with ample time and Tom managed to help himself to TWO McDonald´s breakfasts, at 4:30 in the morning. We slept the whole way to Costa Rica and ended up sitting next to some famous footballer during our layover there. And that pretty much brings it up to speed. Nothing exciting except some delicious airplane food - no seriously. We got french toast for breakfast!
Adiós!
Sara
ps - in the future tom and my posts will not be exactly the same
Greetings from Quito, Ecuador
I have to be honest. This post is not going to be tremendously exciting because A) most of the trip thus far has been spent in the seat of an Embraer, and B) I have not slept in, oh, 33 hours or so. (I´m not counting the piecemeal lapses of consciousness on the plane.) Yes, that´s right. We waited until the last minute to do laundry and pack, and, as a result, packed the second to last item as our car service honked out front at 3:55AM. Notice I say second to last item...the last item would be my jacket that is still hangered in our coat closet in Brooklyn. Good move, Keller...good move. It looks like I will be purchasing a replacement in Peru before we head into the mountains. If you see me when I get back and I am wearing one of those spiffy, vibrant woven ponchos that are popular with the natives there, I caught on to the trend. We have another 3+ hours to kill in the Ecuadorian airport, so I am off...there has to be something interesting around here to eat. Until Peru...
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)